The Big 20/20 Event: Day 17: Make Your Own Candle Votive Holder

This post is brought to you by the lovely Sarah.

This is a really simple diy I did for my own home recently but in fact would make a wonderful simple handmade gift for family and friends too!

Here are all of the details.

You will need: votive holders, vintage/pretty papers, mod podge, foam brush, scissors.

1. Measure your papers against your votive holder. You might find you need to cut it into smaller sections in order to cover your votive holder more prettily.

2. Once you're happy you know which pieces of paper you'd like to use, add a layer of mod podge to your votive holder.

3. Press your paper(s) into place and give them a coat of mod podge on top.

4. Leave to dry for at least an hour.

For my second design I decided to use butterflies and flowers.

I cut my papers down into individual elements first.

And then mod podged them onto the glass. Leave to dry.

And voila - cute candle holders already ready to go!

Yay!

Sarah Leonard is a curious soul, who lives a magical creative life with her kitties and her husband. She runs an Etsy store full to the brim with artistic curiousities, and writes regularly on her blog A Cat-Like Curiosity. She is also the founder of The Curiously Gorgeous Sisterhood, a gorgeous community full of light, life and inspiration.

The Big 20/20 Event: Day 16: Making Your Own Art Journal Part 2

Supplies: - Awl - Sketch Book (I used Canson Watercolor 140lb 9"X12") - Bone Folder (a ruler will work or even the handle of a spatula) - Waxed Thread (for the tutorial I used Sinew but for the book I just used embroidery thread. But waxed is best!) - Large Needle - Ruler - Pencil - Scissors - Glue Stick - Pattern Paper - Sponge (I used a Magic Erasure. You can use anything including an old rag. It is to just back the paper when you punch holes through it.

Now I know I already talked about some of this in the 'Making the Book Cover' part, but just for in case there are those who just wanting to do the book I want to go over a couple of thing. So bear with me if I repeat something.

Start by pulling the Sketch Book apart. Pull out all the pages and remove the glue. Then separate the front cover from the back. The back is a thick cardboard and this will serve as your book covers.

You will find the center of the Card Board and cut it in half. For a 9"X12" the center was 6" from the edge. Cut it to make 2 equal sides. The easiest way is to use a paper-cutter. You can also use a utility knife ran down the side of a straight edge like a ruler. And then there is always scissors.

If you already decorated your cover you will follow these steps to just do the back side of the front cover and the back cover. If you did not do art on your book just repeat what is done to the back cover to both pieces to have a basic cover.

Starting with the back cover you will cut paper out that will hang over all four edges of your cover piece about 3/4". Completely cover one side of the cardboard with glue using the glue stick. Press the paper on centered and with the bone folder (or ruler) slide it across the entire piece to push out any air bubbles.

Next you are going to cut a moon shaped arch from each corner being sure to leave 2mm of paper of paper from the tip of the corner.

Using the glue stick glue down the edges on the other side.

Then you are going to cut out 2 pieces of pattern paper. These are going to go on the inside of the covers. You will want to measure your book cover then subtract 1/4 inch from each side. Using the Sketch book I bought the book covers are 6" X 9". So my inside pieces are 5 1/2" X 8 1/2".

Using the Glue Stick completely cover the pieces and glue them centered on the inside part of the book, one on the front cover and one on the back. Run a Bone folder (or ruler) over to push out any bubbles.

Now we are going to start on the inside of the book. You should have all your papers that you pulled out of your Sketch Pad ready. You will take each sheet and fold it in half. Then using your bone folder run it along the edge to press it flat.

After folding all the pages you are going to group the pages into what is called Signatures. Now now the Watercolor Paper is really thick. I only put 3 papers per signature. But on anything thinner do 4.

Now there are two ways to measure out the holes. One is you can take one of your folded sheets and mark them out and then use it as a template slipping it into each signature which in this case is what I have done. Or you can mark out the top signature and then line a ruler up along the edge of all the signature when they are stacked and mark them all at the same time.

Either way you will want to mark them starting from the edge every 1/2" for three marks. Then one in the center. (see picture below) Of course if you are doing a bigger book you will want to increase the measurement up to an inch.

Next you will take each signature and make sure they are all lined up. If you need you can use a paper clip or clothes pin on them to have them not move. You lay a sponge under each marked area and using the awl punch a hole through all three pieces.

Once all the holes are punched take one of the signatures and place it 1/4" away from the edge of the cover. You are going to mark where each hole has been marked in the signature. A detail to pay attention to here is to have the outside of the book facing up. When you push the awl through each hole it will blow out the other side a bit. You will want that hidden on the inside of the book. (wink)

This is how everything should look at this point. Now for tutorial purposes I am going to use a blank cover so you can see everything. AND I am using Sinew which is a huge thick waxed string for doing leather. But I think it works good so you can see things clearly. Alright! Lets get started with the sewing!

Cover and 1st Signature

Starting at one end of the signature you will push the needle through the hole closest to the end starting from inside the signature.

Loop around to the back side of the cover and through the first hole closest to the edge.

Pull it tight and then loop it around and thread it through the stitch.

Now stick it back through the hole in the signature.

***Go to the next hole over and thread the needle through.

***Loop it around to the back side and through the next hole.

***Loop it around and through the stitch.

***Then stick it back in the signature.

Follow the above steps until you are at you last hole. (I placed stars alongside the steps that need to be repeated)

Once you are at the end of this signature instead of putting the thread back into the signature you have been sewing, you are going to add a new signature and place the thread in the first hole of the new signature closest to the edge.

Middle of Book

You will go to the next hole from inside the signature and thread the needle through. Then you will go one under the signature that is below the signature you are working on. You will loop the thread around the stitch already there. I find it easiest to stick the needle through then open the book to where the needle is to then stick it back through the other side of the stitch.

Here is another view of the looping process.

Then you will stick it back into the hole on the signature.

You are going to repeat all the steps above in this section for the rest of the book leaving out ONE signature. Once you have one signature left continue on to the "Cover of Book" step

Running out of Thread

If you run out of thread it is not a big deal. You simply will tie it off, rethread your needle, tie it off at the end and start in the next hole. Then take the ends that are dangling around and tuck them in to make it look neat.

Cover of Book

To finish off the book you are going to take the last signature and the book cover and work on them both at the same time. To start this you are going to thread your needle through the top of the cover then loop it around the stitch as shown below in the picture.

You then will thread the needle back into the signature and out through the next hole.

***Now you will run your needle behind the stitch from the previous signature.

***Now return to the top of the cover and run the needle through

***You will want to pull the thread all the way through. Try to keep everything a little tight, not too tight but enough to where the gap is the same throughout the book.

***You will then loop around and through the stitch, pulling it all the way through.

***Then go back into the signature and on to the next hole.

You will repeat these above steps all the way through doing even the last hole. (I placed stars alongside the steps that need to be repeated)

You should now have everything done and be on the inside of the signature. You going to tie it off in a knot, cut the thread, and tuck it in.

VIOLA! You are now officially a book maker! (wink) Pat yourself on the back! Here are some finished images of my book. Here is the texture! I LOOOOVE TEXTURE! (wink)

Here is the back of the book. My daughter helped pick out all the pages. She loves butterflies!

This is the inside of the back cover.

Here is a close up of the thread. It is so pretty when it changed colors like this! hee hee

Here is a closeup of the flowers!

If you want to share yours please feel free to email me your pictures. I would LOOOOVE to see them! floppinflower(at)gmail.com

Have an awesome day! (wink)

Lisa's Bio:

Hello! I am so excited to be apart of the BIG 20/20 Event! Let me introduce myself. My name is Lisa Scott aka Floppin Flower. I have been blogging since 2011. I started out basically just doing it for fun to see what it was about. And through the years it has changed right along with me. About a year ago I decided to take some art classes. Painting was one thing I was never able to understand or do. Now it is my love! Especially once I found the world of Mixed Media where there are no rules, you can mix things up the way you want to create a wonderful outcome of colors and textures!! (wink) You can visit me over on my blog www.floppinflower.com

The Big 20/20 Event: Day 15: Make Your Own Homemade Natural Deodorant Stick

This post is brought to you by the lovely Birgit.

If you’ve been following my blog, you will know that I switched the family to all natural, homemade toiletries about 1.5 years ago. The one thing I was somewhat hesitant about though, was deodorant. Somehow I didn’t think I could make that one myself.

You see, we live in the desert, that means it’s REALLY hot, which in turn means, there’s a fair amount of everything from ladylike perspiration to downright, not-at-all-lady-like sweating.

Even though I switched to all natural deodorants quite a while before then, it took me a long time to find something that actually worked - and had the right ingredients!  And over the years I have tried many, many “alternative” deodorants, with very little success. They either didn’t work at all, or not for very long! Or they smelled rather unpleasant! Or they weren’t entirely “natural” enough to be worth it, as many of the supposedly natural deodorants still had a bunch of undesirable ingredients in them.

I finally found one that worked for me ingredient wise, it worked all day and it smelled good enough for me to still feel feminine! The catch? It was around $10-12 a pop. Granted it lasts a while, but I just have a hard time paying that much for a deodorant on a regular basis!

So, I set about making my own. I started with some of the many tutorials on the web, but I found that most of them turned out too oily/greasy for me to feel comfortable with. I wanted mine more on the powdery/dry side but still glide on.

Today, I’m sharing with you the recipe that’s been working best for me!

It’s quick and easy to make, it glides on enough to be a deodorant stick, it’s nourishing to the skin but not greasy, it has ingredients  that I already have in the house and best of all - it keeps me smelling nice all day! And, since I usually make orange and vanilla for myself, it goes nicely with the Orange Honey Shampoo I make and use.

Is it an ANTIperspirant? No.

Part of the problem with regular deodorants and anti perspirants/deodorants is, a) the aluminum, which is a carcinogenic (cancer causing,) and b) the fact that they are designed to block our sweat glands and pores. This is to reduce sweating, but I do believe that this is not a good thing for our bodies. We sweat for a reason!

I would like to note here though, that like with all transitioning to more natural products,  there might be a short adjustment period. The first  couple of weeks of use, you may not find it quite as effective as you would have hoped. Stick with it though! Once the body detoxes the old stuff out and becomes accustomed to the new goodness, it will work pretty well for you!

A note on the deodorant container. You can purchase them new, or you can use your existing deodorant/anti-perspirant container.

To clean an existing one, twist the deodorant stick all the way up to the top, break off and scrape out any remaining deodorant. Then wash in hot soap and water, until none of  the old stuff remains. Dry thoroughly and it’s ready to use for your homemade version!

The containers I used were meant to be filled from the top.

There are however some on the market that are meant to be filled from the bottom. They are the ones that come with an inside cap. Not the general cap, but an extra one, directly covering the deodorant stick. You will need that cap, so make sure you have all the parts before you begin filling a reused container!

You will need:

1 Empty Deodorant Container

1/8 cup Arrowroot Powder/Starch

1/8 cup Baking Soda

2 1/2 Tbsp. Coconut Oil

1 heaping Tbsp. Beeswax Pellets

5 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil

1/8 tsp Sweet Orange Essential Oil

1/8 tsp  Vanilla Essential Oil **

**Please note that sweet orange and vanilla is my favorite combo, but you can use any essential oil combination you like here. For example, rosemary and lemon grass, is a nice, fresh combo, that is a little less “girly”.

Preparation:

Melt beeswax and coconut oil in a pan or double boiler over low heat.

Whisk in the baking soda and arrowroot powder.

Remove pan from heat, and stir in essential oils. Add more essential oils if it isn’t fragrant enough. Be aware however, that if you use a LOT more essential oil, that you will get a softer deodorant stick, due to the increased oil content. However, 5 or so more drops of any given essential oil is fine!

Pour into deodorant container. Fill it all the way up to the very top of the container. It may look like it’s going to spill, but it will settle as it cools.

Leave it uncapped while it’s cooling. If you are impatient, you can speed up that process by putting the deodorant stick in the refrigerator. Once it’s completely cool and solid gently twist and move it up and down just a bit to loosen it. Then cap. And now it’s ready for use!

Notes on using your deodorant: This is not quite as solid as your store-bought deodorant, so don’t twist it up as high as you might be used to. Just go a little above the top edge. It does leave white marks if it gets on dark clothing while applying it, so bear that in mind. Don’t be tempted to put on lots and lots. It won’t work more, the more you put on, especially during the adjustment period. There is such a thing as too much with this deodorant! If you build up a thick thick layer under your arms, it will eventually start to either become unpleasant or crumble off, like it would with any other regular deodorant too. Just use a couple of strokes under your arms and enjoy your naturally fragrant self!

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Birgit Kerr

Meridian tapping mixed media and digital artist, blogger, crafter, baker, cook, caretaker of numerous growing things (human, animal and plant alike) and general creator extraordinaire!

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